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Paul Wheatley

British journalist & photographer, at home in Munich
  • ebook: History of Munich
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The small settlement at Cañini. The river, located mid-way bewteen the buildings and mountains, rapidly expands as the rains arrive, usually late September/ear;y October

Argentina: Santa Victoria to Cañini

August 31, 2023

Though not on any map, Cañini is hugely important to the Campero family. This is where Nieve’s, for example, was born, in what is nowadays a ruined stone house on the side of a mountainside. The family has - or at least had - several similar houses, kilometres apart, and where they slept depended on the work they needed to do, the location of their cows, and the season.

Two brothers, former police officer Lauro (who lives in Santa Victoria) and Emiliano (who lives and works in Buenos Aires), have summer houses here, in a secluded location just off the ‘road’, which runs parallel to River Cañini, after which the family named their modest settlement.

Later in the year, from around mid-September, this dry arid ground will be transformed into lush green countryside as the rains come and the river fills out its banks. In February 2025, the Festival of Cows returns, which for the family and friends means celebrating the animals and the landscape with a big fiesta here.

We plan to return for this special festival. Family and friends from Buenos Aires to Salta to Santa Victoria have told us it’s unmissable, and because of the rains, very different from the August photos and videos presented below.

View fullsize Sunset colours
View fullsize Not far outside of Santa Victoria
View fullsize School drop - a hell of a walk
View fullsize Dog walking
View fullsize The remains of one of Nieves' former homes
View fullsize Cañini, the side of a summer house
View fullsize Entrance to the Cañini summer houses
View fullsize Cañini
View fullsize Photovoltaic
View fullsize A few hardy flowers
View fullsize Getting about
View fullsize Every car seems to have a crucifix
View fullsize Relying on the river
View fullsize Tap but no water
View fullsize Brickwork
View fullsize Outer wall
View fullsize DSCF1145.jpg
View fullsize Storage building
View fullsize The toilet
View fullsize Born in Cañini
View fullsize Green shoots
View fullsize Relaxed
View fullsize A typical stone home
View fullsize Collecting fire wood for cooking
View fullsize Fire for cooking beans and potatoes
View fullsize A view across the mountains
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