It’s been a long time coming, but autumn has finally arrived in the wider Munich region, as seen in these photos from the nearby lake at Starnberg. The light was poor, which made creating bright, clear photos a challenge, though the time of the year manifests other possibilities, notably in oranges, yellows, golds and other seasonal colours.
London squirrel
London, early October, not far from Waterstones bookshop, next to the University of London, I spotted this squirrel searching for food in bins. It was utterly relaxed in the company of humans, to the point where it even appeared happy to pose for this series of potraits.
Trip to Teesside
After the wild, altitude-busting experience of the Andes, few other trips can realistically compete. Unless, that is, it’s a trip back home, to Teesside, on the northeast coast of England. The port town of Middlesbrough is the beating heart of the Tees Valley, a region that has more to offer than meets the (unaccustomed) eye.
Britain’s historic industrial power owed much to exploiting its colonies; it also owed much to places like Middlesbrough, home to iron and steel, and more recently to a mammoth chemical industry. In turn, Teesside’s legacy owes pretty much everything to industrialisation.
A century or two after its heyday, post-industrial Teesside (which for me includes the likes of Middlesbrough, Redcar, Marske and Saltburn - though the region is much more than these towns) has an undeniable ragged, slightly downtrodden feel and look. Of course it does, because as well as half-forgotten industrial architecture and ‘cityscapes’ (our heritage), government after government have neglected this once innovative and dynamic power-house of British industry.
Particularly in the past two decades, areas like Teesside, already facing massive major socio-economic challenges, have suffered incalculably because of austerity and the billons removed from local government budgets. As it is, Middlesbrough, once an anvil on which the Industrial Revolution was moulded, has a legacy of historic buildings, houses and architecture. The mesmerising Transporter Bridge that spans the river Tees is the most striking example.
A few miles along the coast is the Victorian seaside town of Saltburn, famous for its funicular railway, which transports visitors up and down Saltburn bank at the same time as providing stunning seaside views. Ok, it might not be a trip to the Andes, but Saltburn, fish and chips, preferably with a cold beer, and a walk along the pier, is in its own way every bit as satisfying.
Saltburn, Middlesbrough and wider Teesside won’t feature on many travel itineraries, but as these photos show they have much more about them, for anyone prepared to scratch even a touch beneath the surface.
Argentina: Salta
Accordoing to the 2010 census, around 955,000 people self-identified as belonging to, or a descedent from, one of the 35 officially recognised indigenous groups in Argentina. The north west province of Salta and its capital of the same name is renowned as the home of various indigenous groups. The city and wider province have various museums and institutes that focus on the region’s indigenous heritage and culture, one of the reasons (the stunning landscape is also an obvious pull) it has become a tourist destination.
The incas occupied the province of Salta (appropriately, which means ‘somewhere pleasant to settle down’) in the 15th century as they extended their empire east across the Andes. The 16th-century arrival of the Spanish heralded the demise of the Incan empire and with it the mass death (primarily through disease, though the nature of Spanish rule was also murdererous) of indigenous peoples. Across the province, researchers have uncovered numerous Inca and pre-Inca ruins and coutless artefacts, reflectings its long pre-Spanish history of indegenous inhabitation.
Salta the city was founded on 16 April 1582 by Spaniard Hernando de Lerma as a strategically important commercial and communication centre, which built on existing indigenous infrastructure and knowledge. Unsurprisingly, parts of the surviving indigenous population continued to be hostile to the colonial power, notably the Calchaquí between 1630-1640. The Spanish colonialists, however, prevailed and ruled what became known as Argentina for almost the next two centuries.
Salta is today well-known as the place in 1813 where General Belgrano defeated the Spanish as the country fought for independence from colonial rule. Another is Salta-born Martín Miguel de Güemes, who made his name helping beat off British invasions at Rio de la Plata, near Buenos Aires. Back in Salta, he was prominent in organising resistance to Spanish forces. He was shot as they took the city in June 1821, and later died from his injuries. A week or so later, his army retook Salta, and this time there was no way back for the Spanish. Both Belgrano and Güemes are frequently seen names across the city, such as with statues, memorials, plazas, hotels and so on.
Today, Salta is a city of around 650,000 people (the eighth most populous in the country), though its centre has more of a large-town feel, particularly compared to somewhere like bustling Buenos Aires. Researchers have undertaken various studies to try to work out how much of the populations in places like Salta province are indigenous or from indigenous peoples. Many such representative studies show that the north west of Argentina has relatively high percentages of indigenous peoples in the populations, including Salta.
The Mueso de Arqueologia de Alta Montana de Salta (High Altitude Archeological Museum) Is just one museum reflecting the past and present of the city’s population. Around 30-40 minutes by foot from the city centre is the Mercado Artensanal de Salta, an indigenous artesanal institute. The centre, which opened in 1968 in a building dating back to the mid-eighteenth century, functions as a cultural and exhibition centre, shop and meeting point, alongside various other functions revolving around the history, present and future lives of Salta’s indigenous population. It is also home to various workshops, such as ceramics, handicraft and loom, and there is also a documentation centre. Across the road is a wonderful market with independent indigenous sellers offering a host of artesanal fabrics, ornaments, bags and numerous other items.
The small settlement at Cañini. The river, located mid-way bewteen the buildings and mountains, rapidly expands as the rains arrive, usually late September/ear;y October
Argentina: Santa Victoria to Cañini
Though not on any map, Cañini is hugely important to the Campero family. This is where Nieve’s, for example, was born, in what is nowadays a ruined stone house on the side of a mountainside. The family has - or at least had - several similar houses, kilometres apart, and where they slept depended on the work they needed to do, the location of their cows, and the season.
Two brothers, former police officer Lauro (who lives in Santa Victoria) and Emiliano (who lives and works in Buenos Aires), have summer houses here, in a secluded location just off the ‘road’, which runs parallel to River Cañini, after which the family named their modest settlement.
Later in the year, from around mid-September, this dry arid ground will be transformed into lush green countryside as the rains come and the river fills out its banks. In February 2025, the Festival of Cows returns, which for the family and friends means celebrating the animals and the landscape with a big fiesta here.
We plan to return for this special festival. Family and friends from Buenos Aires to Salta to Santa Victoria have told us it’s unmissable, and because of the rains, very different from the August photos and videos presented below.
Though the stadium was only around two-thirds full, the home fans put on a spectacle throughout the game
Salta football and memories of home
Fernando, on the right in the photo, is a part-time football journalist, and he also owns and runs a bakery in Buenos Aires
Three-time World Cup winners. including in 2022, and with arguably the two greatest players in the history of the game in Maradona and Messi, it will surprise nobody to hear that football is huge in Argentina. I have a team in Argentina, and since Nieves’ (my partner) family found out it was Boca Juniors, half of them have been spent considerable time telling me why I should instead be supporting River Plate, another massive Buenos Aires club that this half support.
While in Salta, Fernando, married to one of Nieves’ sisters, Alexandra, got us a couple of tickets for a much-anticipated city derby, between Juventud Antoniana and Central Norte from a cousin. So, the two of us, plus cousin and cousin’s sons, plus a daughter-in-law, all of whom are passionate Juventud Antoniana fans, accompanied us to the stadium for the 5.30 kick off. That the stadium’s backdrop is a pure mountain view on one side, with the opposite one leading to the city, only added to the excitement.
Home fans unfurl a huge Centro Juventud Antoniana flag prior to kick off
As we neared the stadium, it was clear that there were police everwhere, though I couldn’t see any fans from the away team, Central Norte. As we entered the ground, a policewoman immediately asked me to get rid of a small flag/banner one of the boys had put around my neck. I never wear football paraphenalia, so I was happy to comply. I then asked the police officer why, and she explained that the threat of violence meant that all such displays were banned. In fact, I was later told away fans were also banned, because the threat of trouble was too great.
Shortly after watching a series of mesmerising fan displays (including the unrolling of an enormous flag that covered an entire standing section), a disturbance in part of the ground quickly turned into a mass brawl. After several minutes police arrived to separate the hooligans and then began to fight them back, at which point an unsteady peace broke out. Combat police arrived, all very normal, I was told, which set the scene perfectly to remind me of the bad old days back home.
Mountains and sunset make for a great picture, though combat police on the pitch at half-time reveal a more miserable side to football here
Growing up in the UK in the 1970s and 1980s, I had seen the worst football violence could throw up, often first hand as I watched my team, Middlesbrough, in both England’s top two divisions. The country’s football landscape reached rock bottom during these times, banned from Europe, dispised abroad.
It only really changed after millions (now billions) of pounds of TV money helped transform things. New or renovated stadiums, more families, worldwide viewing, world-class players, lucrative sponsorships and great managers played key roles, though vast amounts of TV money was arguably the major catalyst. It’s far from perfect today, but it’s a damn sight better than the ‘70s and ‘80s. Argentina simply doesn’t have these financial and other ‘tools’ available to make a transformation possible.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed the game, the spectacle, the utter commitment, fight and good skill of the players, and the fans’ passion (fighting aside). The away team, Central Norte, were the stronger, more attractive, team, and deserved to win, which they did, 1-0. Just before the goal went in, Fernando has asked me to take a photo of the action. Instead I took a video, and with supreb timing captured the goal. I wasn’t about to tell anyone, but I was pleased with the result.
A few minutes after leaving the stadium, I spotted a huge smile on Fernando’s face. ‘You don’t seem very disappointed,’ I said. ‘No,’ he replied. ‘That’s because I’m a Central Norte fan,’ he laughed. ‘I’m delighted! Now, show me that video.’
A scruffy goal, but one fans like Fernando nevertheless hugely enjoyed as the away team won the local Salta derby
Argentina: Santa Victoria
Around 45 years ago, Santa Victoria (marked with the red pin on the map) was a tiny village in the province of Salta on the edge of the Argentinian Andes, sitting alonside the River Santa Victoria, with a handful of houses and little else. Even 20-30 years ago, though more people lived there, it hadn’t changed too much. Today, it’s a rapidly expanding, much-in-demand village with its own hospital, several corner shops, master baker (and conditorei), many thriving businesses (including at least one providing IT training), a new school and college.
In recent decades, families who once lived and worked in the mountains have settled here. That said, nowadays, many young people from the village head for Salta, or Buenos Aires, for example, to find work, many of whom say they will move back once work allows - some even waiting for retirement to make their final return. Predominately inhabited by indigenous people rather those of European origin, such as common in the rest of Argentina, the following photos give a feel for this growing town and its environs.
Munich: open, but much more relaxed
Like other cities working their way through coronavirus, Munich tourist numbers have dropped through the floor in recent months. This is on the back of annual city boasts of how every year Munich has ever increasing numbers of tourists. The truth, however, for many people who live in the city is that there are numerous plus points from having so few people here. Of course, any business related to the influx of huge numbers of tourists will see it differently. Quite rightly. But for other residents, the city has an unusual relaxed air about the place that is hugely attractive.
This picture suggests a sunny Marienplatz about to be engulfed with clouds. There are plenty of people around, but nothing like the usual numbers.
The area around the Feldherrnhalle (German) is particularly interesting, with it flanked on one side by the former Wittelsbach royal palace, the Residenz, and the unmistakeable Theatinerkirche. The approach, along Residenzstraße, showcases two lions perched on plinths. Tradition dictates that locals (and nowadays visitors) touch the noses of the lions for good luck (albeit not such a good idea during the current pandemic)
This is the spectacular scene that greets visitors as they reach the Feldherrnhalle (left), flanked by the Theatinerkirche on one side and the Residenz on the other (out of shot, behind me as I took the photo).
Built by ‘star architect’ of his age, Friedrich von Gärtner, for King Ludwig I, between 1841 and 1844, the Feldherrnhalle is located on the southern edge of Odeonsplatz. Clearly modelled on Florence’s Loggia dei Lanzi, an ‘open air gallery’, it is one of numerous Munich buildings inspired by Italian neo-classical style.
The magnificent baroque Theatinerkirche is another example of Munich architecture that reached across the Alps to Italy for inspiration. Designed by Italian Agostino Barelli, it was built (started 1663) to celebrate the birth of Elector Ferdinand Maria and Henriette Adelaide of Savoy’s child and heir to the throne. Barelli’s successor, Enrico Zuccalli, added the two towers in 1690. Decades later, great Munich artist/architect François de Cuvilliés transformed the the church by giving it its beautiful Rococo facade, finished in 1768.
The Feldherrnhalle was just one of many Munich places the Nazis instrumentalised, particularly as it was where the party’s 1923 coup collapsed in a hail of bullets. A photo of a young Adolf Hitler celebrating the outbreak of the First World War on 2 August 1914 appeared in the 1930s, apparently taken by Heinrich Hoffman. Though the photo appears in countless respected books and exhibitions, its veracity is disputed, with good reason considering Hoffmann was Hitler’s official photographer and the original is thought to no longer exist.
Odeonsplatz has long been a place where locals head to for public events, from art events and concerts to speeches and demonstrations (it was an early place for the Munich branch of Extinction Rebellion to hold events).
Metres from the Theatinerkirche is the Hofgarten, the former court garden and part of the Residenz (seen in the left of the image). The garden was developed over centuries and the Italian influence is again clear, such as with the round pavilion, the garden layout and in the image here, an arched arcade decorated with works of art (German) that served as propaganda to highlight the ‘greatness’ of the House of Wittelsbach. Now open to the public, the Hofgarten is a favourite Munich location for a stroll, or for a coffee or meal at the Tambosi restaurant garden - with travel so restricted and discouraged, summer 2020 is the perfect time to be here, when Munich is open, but much more relaxed than it usually is.
Pikala Bikes: an eco and social initiative in the heart of Marrakesh
In late 2019 I visited Pikala Bikes, a small business in Marrakesh created by Cantal Bakker, from the Netherlands. Her idea was simple: introduce cycle tours created and run by locals, and in the process provide much-needed employment for young Moroccans - and part of the bargain is that as part of their training they also get Engish lessons and learn everything about repairing bikes. TUI Organised the trip and its TUI Care Foundation is a key supporter of Pikala Bikes. Pikala Bikes is located a few minutes (link is Google Maps) by bike from the Medina.
